If you
mentioned ‘cauliflower’ to my grandmother in Palolem, chances were she wouldn’t
know what you were talking about. French beans maybe she’d heard of. There was
a time when raw beetroot/carrot juice wasn’t possible to make, even in sophisticated
urban kitchens. Unless you were wealthy enough to have special stones to
crush/grind them to a fine chutney, muslin cloths for slaves to squeeze the
pulp through, chrystalware to serve the precious liquid in and important
friends to serve them to. In the Goa of my childhood, beetroots/carrots were
not easily available. Once, someone had come from far-off Marmugoa/ Mapusa/
Mumbai and brought those tasty, colourful roots with them as a treat. The excretion of their pigments on the
following day caused mild trepidation and a merry discussion, but that’s not
the point of this piece.
Juices -- of
only sweet-lime—were for the ill and the old. The idea of consuming foods rich
in nutrients not grown around the house was alien to people who ate fish/beef-curry-rice
at every meal all year round. Coconuts were eaten raw, scraped, ‘milked’ (for
want of a more accurate word), cooked with jaggery, without a care that they
might clog blood vessels.
Juices,
amongst the several health-hysteria related concepts we’ve imported from the
West, have taken over our lives. Karela juice for diabetes (which means loss of
practice for qualified endocrinologists). Cucumber juice for the skin (promises
work: beauticians earn more than dermatologists). Palak juice for those with a
low haemoglobin count, melon juice for digestive disorders, all sorts of
mixed-herb juices for curing cancer/ piles/ alcoholism/ death. Pumpkin juice
spiced up with lemon, mint and spices for all-round good health. Etc.
Breakfasts
these days are accompanied by ‘juice’. Orange, grape, mixed fruit, lychee or
some other exotic fruit. It’s packaged (with/out preservatives/sugar), stored
and poured out of tetrapacks which, when empty, can be used for planting
seedlings if you’re eco-conscious. The glass, bud-shaped thingames that were
once used for squeezing citrus fruits now adorn drawing-rooms. They share space
with lacquer-coated brass paan-containers, rust-spotted nut-crackers with
carved handles, ancestors’ portraits, dented copper bath-water vessels used as
planters, models of the Taj Mahal, mementoes of conferences attended and
plastic dolls. (Nostalgia curios
displayed by the ‘old-times-good-times’ brigade.)
To keep up
with what’s happening in the world of health, Bai Goanna bought herself a juicer-cum-blender.
“Why can’t you
eat the fruit with pulp and fibre?” Shri Husband wanted to know. “It’s good for
the colon, you know.”
“Why waste
time chewing? I’m not a cow,” she retorted. “Technology is meant to help me,
I’m going to use it.”
We watched her
dice washed cabbage leaves and throw them into the gadget. A couple of whirrs
later, she poured the extract into a glass. Two fistfuls of shredded cabbage
had been converted into a couple of teaspoons of frothy liquid. In seconds. The
pastel green had become many shades darker. We peered into the gadget. Whatever
was left of the leaves clung desperately to the little holes in the cylinder/jar.
We watched the process of scraping. Gently at first, tentatively, so that the
jar wouldn’t get damaged. Then the spatula was used with some force. The little
tatters of dehydrated leaves didn’t give up their place(s) around the blade and
the sides of the ‘special jar’. Seconds had turned to a couple of minutes. Finally,
Bai Goanna decided enough was enough. She put water into the same jar, the lid
on the jar, put the switch on and the mess inside got soggier as it twirled
around. When it looked frothy, Bai Goanna took all the jar-contents into her
palm and squeezed out with the help of tightly curled fingers every drop of
cabbage juice from them (jar-contents, not fingers). Spiced with salt, pepper
and basil leaves, it wasn’t difficult to swallow.
Over the next
few days, Bai Goanna extracted juices from cucumbers, melons, tomatoes,
pomegranates, even apple and ginger combined. With her newly acquired
expertise, every visitor to her house was offered a choice of strange looking
and stranger tasting drinks. “Try this, it’s good for your health,” was how
conversations began. Then followed discussions on low iron, high sugar, low
blood-pressure, high cholesterol, arthritis, Ayurveda prescriptions,
home-remedies and the best ‘juicers’ available in the market.
We noticed
that roadside eateries had as many chai drinkers as fruit-juice fans. Crushed
ice helped increase volume, keep costs low and customers happy. The juices were
strained so that not the tiniest bit of fibre/seed/flesh came into the mouth. We
discovered friends who patronized upmarket hotels/clubs wanted ‘vodka with
watermelon, thanks’ when they were asked what they would drink. Or ‘dark rum
with orange, please’. Seeing some of them sip the brightly coloured stuff
through crushed ice, I remembered the golas of yore.
There’s one
thing that I haven’t found anyone do at home: make oos-juice. Sugarcanes (oos
we call them) are grown in other parts of the world, but I don’t know whether
they are juicily served by the roadside to travellers, drivers, children,
salesmen, anyone thirsting for an instant sugar-high.
The main roads
in Goa have oos-juice stalls located at every other kilometre. The quality,
serving measurements and prices are standardised. I don’t know whose idea this
was, but it’s a successful one. Those like Bai Goanna who like to make
everything at home, are stumped when it comes to oos-juice. It’s easier to make
delicate wine and smelly cheese at home than to buy a sticks of cane and press
the juice out of them. Strong teeth and gums and jaw-bones help, but even they
can’t take out a glass-full when oos-juice thirst strikes.
The ‘make in
India’ teams working on fighter aircraft and submarines could earn some
chutta-paisa for their institutions if they invented a domestic-sized apparatus
to take the sweet juice out of
cane-stalks. A million-million Indians would buy it.
Starting with Bai Goanna.
Feedback:
sheelajaywant@yahoo.co.in
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