Sunday 12 October 2014

X-mases Around the Country.





(23 Dec ’12)
            In Mumbai, Christmas in a Protestant school meant singing a hymn at assembly. The choir sang a couple of carols, the pre-primary kids had a party of sorts, and since it coincided with the end of year, there were elocution, debates and essay competitions before school shut for a couple of weeks and we cousins steam-shipped down to Palolem. Our neighbourhood, middle-class, a mix of Gujeratis, Maharashtrians, Goans, Tamilians and Sindhis, had a handful of Christian families. To our joy, we children were always treated with cake, kalkals, chicken-mayonnaise sandwiches and a small gift like a pencil or a keychain or some cheap plastic toy which we treasured until the next year. Decorations were a star-kandil outside one window, and a small crib in a corner of the ‘hall’ (haven’t figured out why the tiny outer room was called by this name in Mumbai.)
            Marriage made me set up homes in remote corners of the country. At Diwali, the military cantonments celebrate with lights, sweets and snacks and fireworks. Religion didn’t play much of a role. Parties did. The Muslims were ‘targeted’ on Id days: for mutton biryanis, sheer-khurmas and whatever else the dear housewives could slog up. We focused on the Christians on Christmas and Easter. Our Anglo-Indian neighbour, Mrs Dutton, took help from my son and me for stirring the huge amount of batter for the cake, a month before she baked it. In return, we ate the salt-meat: no one in Goa makes it that tasty. Really. The Syrian Orthodoxes from Kerala treated us to their creamy fish curries and stews with all the members of the aapam family. Sweets followed. In the bitter winters of Kashmir, Punjab, Northern UP (now Uttaranchal) and the edge of the Thar, Christmas meant razais, silks, woollen clothes and socks inside leather shoes. Even today, no Christmas or New Year passes by without my thinking about our soldiers who go through so much hardship to keep us safe. It’s unbearably cold where they live, the landscape barren and the environment depressing. Away from home in miserable weather conditions, lonely yet motivated, these fine young men … keep them in your minds when you celebrate cheerily here in Goa.
            Camps and other closed communities have their own ideas of fun. Santa Clauses came in cycle-rickshaws, by helicopter, jeep, or walking. In some postings, we had real snow. Mostly, we did without the (cotton or thermacole flakes) pretence that modern malls and five-star hotels display. Once, the husbands were all away near a border area. We ladies entertained our children by dressing up in reds, Santesses Clausettes, so that the ‘tradition’ continued.
            In Tamil Nadu and Hyderabad, like in Goa, Christmas was ‘pleasant’ not bone-chilling cold like in the north. So no bonfires or heaters. Dancing under starlit skies and visiting churches around midnight was the norm.
            When I took up a job in the hospitality industry, I learned that The Season was serious business time. Blocked rooms, booked rooms, many-dished buffets, expensive decorations, high bills, non-availability of tickets for travel, I learnt about them all. Those who depended on this time of the year to earn much of their annual income, lobbied and manipulated to get the highest payment for singing, decorating, driving taxis, supplying pulaos /sorpotels /pickles /dodols /bebincas. The spirits of Christmas could be kept on hold whilst survival was happening.
            In the hospital where I worked, in Mumbai, nurses from Kerala learned Rangoli from their Maharashtrian friends, or got them to do the stuff on their ward floors. Blinking lights, shiny and colourful clothes came into the staid, serious corridors. So festive did the atmosphere get, that even patients often forgot about their illnesses and discomforts. The power of pretty surroundings, pleasant faces and cheeriness can’t be underestimated. It is often followed by good appetite, good sleep, and recovery.
            Sale, sale, sale. No prices ever come down, but customers flock to buy something that has a black cross on the old price and a red tick-mark on the new one.  From Diwali till well after New Year’s, this madness continues.
            In little Sangolda, away from prying tourist eyes, the chapel has been white-washed. Our man-of-all-trades, Shiva, hasn’t had a day to spare do clean up our yard, because he’s been painting the fronts of homes (the backs remain neglected for generations together), scraping compound walls, cleaning corners, destroying cobwebs, washing grills, etc.
            A little Sikh boy once asked his father, a soldier in the Indian Army, what Christmas was. The father replied, in the tradition of the sub-continent: “It’s the gurpurab of the Christians.”
            Peace be with everyone, and a jolly ho-ho-ho to you and yours.
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