Wednesday, 24 September 2014

The Coast on the Other Side.




(7 Oct ’12)
            As one born and brought up on the west coast, it’s quite a treat to see the sun rising from the waves. More interesting was to compare Pondicherry, another colonized (once, by the French) union territory, with Goa.
First about Chennai’s beaches: the Marina has no equivalent in Goa. It’s one of the longest beaches in the world. Alongside it runs a main road, like the Marine Drive in Mumbai. Again, Goa has no road that sweeps so beautifully along a bay. (To me, the road that almost touches the Mandovi at Ribander, is amongst the most fascinating I’ve ever seen or read of). The Portuguese didn’t build a road parallel to the sea and there’s no way our government will have the artistic sense to build one. The people won’t allow it either. As a result, a large section of the population is actually kept away from the lovely coastline here. There, thousands of locals and tourists alike perambulate through the evening, from sunset to late night, allowing the gentle eastern coast breeze to cool them down. At the much smaller Besant Beach, there are bungalows facing the sea, like at the Worli Sea Face, again in Mumbai, and children skating, joggers shedding calories, couples building appetites, teenagers building stamina, and lots of people eating ice-creams. What I liked is that there is a road running right next to the beach, unobstructed by private property, dividing the sandy stretch from the fancy homes. Wish we had just one like that in Goa. Like Goa, the east coast also has a nice mix of religions and conservative people with rigid but differing beliefs live alongside sharing the same language, food and attire.
            Pondicherry. No one seems to consider the Pondicherian different from the Tamilian. There are border issues (with Karnataka) elsewhere, but none here. Like in Goa, many foreigners have made this their home and their art, their language, their food have made a mark amongst the locals. Number-plates on cars mingle: TN, PY, even DL. The single beach stretch doesn’t allow traffic when people need to visit it. Not even a scooter. On Palolem and Miramar beaches, I’ve seen people manouvre their four-wheel drive vehicles through the sand. We could walk at our own pace without having to dodge anything. Quite leisurely. Considering the number of people, it was cleaner than expected. I repeat, considering the numbers.
            Transport in these two places was better organized. No, not the autos: they’re just as bad, charging whatever they felt like, without any logic or reason. The buses were bigger, not as crowded (as far as I could see), numbered, labelled and not racing. The reason for not racing could be because the people there don’t know their left from their right, nor do they have any clue which way they may turn in the next thirty seconds. If traffic in most of India is bad, in Chennai it’s horrid. Therefore the buses sort of glide slowly, very slowly through the marutis, fords, skodas, audis, mercedes, scooters, scooters, scooters and (believe me) ambassadors. We may say ‘Chennai’s a metro, so the bus service is good’, but to some extent ours is a city-state or rural urbania and there’s much we can learn from others. Perhaps we’ll never have a metro rail or traffic jams… I still have hope that we’ll improve our public transport system.
            It’s better to take a taxi in Chennai than an auto. The prices are fixed, there’s a home pick up, the drivers reliable. All transactions are done on the phone and through a legitimate office. Makes life very easy for an outsider. And for Chennaites as well.
            The one area in which Goa scores is communication. In Chennai, most people know only Tamil. I mean at the worker level. No Hindi is understood or spoken. I hope we Goans stick to our Konkani-marathi-hindi-english-portuguese-kannada-gujerati combo. Anywhere in Goa, someone in the vicinity will be able to speak any one of the above.  It’s a big advantage in a place that earns a living through tourism.
            For a state that has a high pure vegetarian population, it’s not surprising that the idli-dosa places dot every corner. But there are international cuisines from Korean to KFC all over the city.
            The Dakshinchitra, the Cholamandala Village, the Crocodile and Snake Farms, the deer at Guindy and the magnificent banyan tree at the Theosophical Society grounds were my favourites. The ride to Auroville was too short to see much. All in all, I do see why the west coast has done better in tourism. We seem to love our guests more.
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